11/24/2023 0 Comments Canon ts e 17mmMaybe the others are better for hand holding. The lens requires too many adjustments, and the 17, at least, doesn't have good hand holding ergonomics. They are such finely machined beautiful tools. By moving groups of optical elements in relation to each other - with two lockable and. It has to be focused, but not precisely, like the longer ones will, especially wide open with tilt. The TS in the Canon TS-E series name stands for Tilt and Shift. I use them, but like I said, critical focus is not a thing on a 17mm lens at F11. You can easily check the focus on several parts of the frame several ways. TS-E 17mm f/4L - Support - Download drivers, software and manuals - Canon Spain. They would be especially useful on a longer TSE lens with tilt. The manual focus aids on the R are outstanding. At 61, I don't like lying on the ground or climbing on the furniture as much as I used to. The fully articulating screen is really useful, as a wide lens needs the best perspective, which is often higher or lower than eye level. The big level, which many complain about, is great for leveling that beast of a lens. Leveling is probably more critical with a wider lens. There are a lot of features on the R that greatly benefit the use of such a lens. The 17 is the ultimate architectural lens. The tilt feature is going to shine on the longer lenses. I have only shifted the lens, because everything is pretty sharp on a 17mm lens at F11. It's probably not the one for the miniature effects and unique portraits, because it is so wide. The maximum aperture of the TS-E 17mm f4L becomes f5. My old Canon TS-E 24mm f3.5L (which doesnt spend much time on my camera anymore) and my Canon TS-E 17mm f4L with the Canon 1.4x extender (resulting in also 24mm effective). I'm sure the other ones work perfectly as well, like every EF lens I have tried. Today I compared my two Tilt/Shift lenses. Any recommendations as to which of these works the best when adapted or just the most versatile focal length in a tilt shift lenses. I have been looking at either the 17mm, 24mm or 45mm. Anyone used any of the canon ts-e lenses adapted on to the eos r. Therefore I still bought FE 16-35 GM (less converging vertical and therefore less degree in fixing, and f2.8 is important to me) instead of 12-24G and feel still need to carry 17L TS-E for city street photos.I have been intrigued with the miniature effect and unique portraits that can be achieved with tilt shift lenses and have been thinking of buying one of canons ts-e lens. I'd have to fix vertical converging in software that will lost a large portion of edges so 12mm likely will become 16 or 17mm wide, and still edges will stretch out unproportionally that looks weird. I saw your photos, wonderful BTW, that you seem had slow pace and carefully chose position or building where you were able to level your camera. I have seen many 12-24G photos with severe converging vertical which is ugly look in my taste especially in narrow streets or too close to tall building etc. The only problem is that most times I simply unable to level the camera. I'd love to replace 17L TS-E which is bulky with 12-24G. The Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L Tilt-Shift Lens was introduced at the same time as the Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift Lens. It is also one of the highest quality (both optically and physically) 17mm lenses made. You used to be a 17L TS-E fan and now a 12-24G big fan The Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L Tilt-Shift Lens is, at review time, the widest tilt-shift SLR lens made. Of course I am missing the chance to tilt but I used that extremely seldom. Revisited them in 2017 and found the G 12-24 much sharper when framing and cropping instead of shifting plus stitching. The first week I had my A7R II in 2016 I experimented a bit with them an put then on the shelf for the next months. Metabones did update the adapter to "T" to reduce the inner reflection and allow more shift with the 17mm ts-e I never understood why people prefer the 17mm and use the teleconverter x1.4 to make it a 24mm, instead of using the 24mm ts-e lens. I find it often better to use the 24mm lens with 3 exposer shift left, center, right and sticking it. It is always best to do multiple frames at the same exposer by holding a black card a cover selectively the light sources and recompose in photoshop. The 17 is an extreme wide angle lens and a very large front element that is very sensitive for light sources. I would like to know if any of you have this kind of experience, even if with other setup. JPG direct from RAW, no post processing applied. It happens with natural light and also with artificial lights. I've been using this setup and I'm very unpleased with something that I think its some kind of chromatic aberration with light sources! I've been trying to find something about it, but without success.
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